Distributor for Turbo application Friday, 23-Jun-2000 11:49:12 Message: 195.226.132.8 writes: Hi there, I have an 1835cc engine which is to be used with turbo, everything to do with the engine is fine but i need to purchase a distributor to use with my Schwitzer turbo, can you please supply me with some details!! Andy D

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How much boost? What ignition are you planning on running? How many miles a year? What gas/alky? Yes, it all matters.... (n/t) (John Connolly) (23-Jun-2000 13:30:42) I use a bosch 009 locked out set the timing at 24 degrees advance with Petronix ignition on my 2110 turbo it works fine daily driving and strip use. (n/t) ([email protected]) (23-Jun-2000 14:49:24) Just a question. Wouldn't it run smoother if set up not with a locked out ignition? Like try a MSD-6BTM to retard under boost, and run a distr. with a close to stock advance curve? Just asking, I have no experience in this area. (n/t) (Steve Arndt) (23-Jun-2000 15:09:58) The 6BTM is ideal but also expensive. Locked at 24 just works day in and day out. (n/t) (Marty) (23-Jun-2000 17:30:48) Re: Distributor for Turbo application (Carsten) (24-Jun-2000 07:54:05) I run locked timing, and here's why (John Connolly) (24-Jun-2000 10:24:38)

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I used a 009 set at 24 degrees on my turbo, worked greate, but it wasnt locked. I cant see the point of locking it. you shall build a motor that works like an original before boost kicks in. I am now running a 205 set at 34 degrees total an 10 degrees boost retard. crisper of boost engine!

cb

Carsten

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turbo engines usually have "low" compression (anything below 9:1 is low). As a result, they need/like a LOT of initial advance to keep them from falling on their face off the line (besides, you aren't on boost yet).

Once you go on boost, you need to retard the spark (from the "optimal" 32-34 degrees of total timing). You can get all fancy and have a custom distributor with advance, then retard it on boost and all that monkey-motion, OR just run it locked at 20 on the street, and 25 at the track (when you up the boost above 15 psi). It flat out works! You may lose out on 5hp or something, but it's VERY simple. I have seen a dozen turbo engines BLOWN UP or gotten ruined rod bearings (detonation) because (for one reason or another)their custom ignition curve didn't curve, and they were stuck with too much advance.

The locked timing thing is simple and works, and that's all the reason you need to run it. Fancy curves (in this application) are just complicated, and give you a ton more things to go wrong and chase after (and keep track of)

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Locking a 009's advance?

Friday, 30-Jun-2000 20:31:00

Message:

12.13.134.41 writes:

Hey, John C. or anyone else out there. How do you lock the 009 for a turbo? I missed that lesson. I think mine advances

21 degrees right now. I've got it set to 5 degrees btdc static from when it was normally aspirated.

Terry in TN

 

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Remove the points plate. You then can see the advance mechanism on the distributor shaft. WELD IT (mig or tig). When you weld them, the shaft WILL

sieze in the distributor body! Don't sweat, it will free up once the heat evens out. Put it back together. (n/t) (John Connolly) (30-Jun-2000 21:03:09)

John could you do that with an MSD dist. also? (n/t) (01-Jul-2000 02:17:12)

Re: The MSD is lockable without welding. The instruction manual instructs on how to lock out advance. (n/t) (Jim Ratto) (01-Jul-2000 02:26:38)

MSD take foot off lift out of dist spin one half of the shaft and it will line up with the holes in the advance part put back together and set foot so rotor points

the right direction (n/t) (01-Jul-2000 07:17:06)

The MSD is easy. You disassemble just as if you are changing the curve, then you just drop the pin into a hole and you have NO ADVANCE. The 009 is

the way to go for budget guys! I have a turbo-modified 009 if anyone needs it. (n/t) (John Connolly) (01-Jul-2000 10:20:00)

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John Connolly


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