2 things one in your reply to me about nitrous what kit were you using and where did you get a 30 hp stage? and secondly what does the "h" stand for in your name?

sky

------------------

SKY, I use a plate system( in between manifold/carb), and it works very well. You could set it at what ever horsepower you want.

FAT MIKE.......DKPKILR

FAT MIKE

----------------

Yep! Its a system from 10,000 RPM, I started it with a 60HP shot(11.62@115MPH). I just drilled it to a 80HP shot(11.31@117).

FAT MIKE....DKPKILR

FAT MIKE

----------------

Re: calling mark h..........

Saturday, 18-Mar-2000 13:23:10

208.168.209.110 writes:

Sky, Its just a guess, but the Nos systems fogger set up goes from about 60hp to over 100hp. It uses four nozzles so if you used just one nozzle and the big jets you would get something like 20-30hp. To save money you would be better off parting it out since for the set up Mark talked about you only need one nozzle. It sounds like a good idea to me. Just dont lean it out.

Hope this helps.

POWER RULES!

Rich Gromer

---------------------

Re: Like Rich said I just used one fogger under the carb.

Sunday, 19-Mar-2000 00:20:58

209.179.140.223 writes:

I don`t remember the exact jets but you can start with 18 nitrous and 21 fuel jets. I think I squared the jets eventually by making them the same size but be careful. When you start going big on the jets things get more critical. An 18-21 set up with 6psi fuel pressure will make your car go faster and you won`t have to mess with timing or fuel or any of that stuff. When you go bigger on the jets though ,keep an ear out for pinging. One thing to never do with nitrous is push the button at idle or below 3000 rpm or so. its not good to shove all that nitrous into the motor when its not going fast enough to swallow it. Other than that ,have fun!!

And to answer your question ,I just put together my own system from stuff I bought at the swap meet. I had one fogger, two small solonoid valves, a 10 lb bottle, and a throttle switch that I made a bracket for and bolted it to the carb mounting bolt. That way the nitrous will only come on when you floor the motor. I got plastic 1/8 " hose from the auto parts store and plumbed it up. I used a cheap electric fuel pump and teed it into the cars fuel line. On large nitrous system you should have a seperate fuel line running to the tank but for a single fogger ,teeing it is fine. You can call up NOS and have them send you a catolog and a 4 cylinder tech manuel. There are diagrams in them that tell howw to set up nitrous.

Mark Herbert

---------------------------

If you use one fogger per side under the carb you can feed one cylinder more than the other. If I was putting nos on kadrons I would either use four foggers(one in each runner just above the flange) or put one fogger in the top of each air cleaner.

You need the fogger nozzels that shoot straight out and you can mount them right next to the hold down nuts pointing straight down the throat of the carb. Be sure not to aim the nozzels toward one cylender more than the other. Being mounted so high at the top of the aircleaner though , it won`t be that critical. Then run the lines to a tee and then directly to the solinoids. Mount the solinoids to the shroud(securely) or on the fire wall. Then your fuel line goes to the fuel pump(6 psi) and the nitrous line goes to the bottle. Ground both solinoids and run the hot wires through a full throttle switch and then to a switch in the car. That way the nitrous can only be activated when your at full throttle. The connections between the solinoids and the nozzels can be made with 1/8th inch plastic line and brass ferrels and nuts. (the same as used for oil guages) You need a steel braided line from the bottle to the solinoid. And an extra fuel pump that makes 6or7 psi. Alot of aftermarket pumps are set at this pressure so you won`t need a regulator. But you must know your fuel pressure to jet the nitrous. NOS has a chart in their tech manuel. You can call them up and get one of these manuels for free or cheap and it will tell you all you need to know. Good luck,

PS U should be able to get 50 extra HP easy, 60=50=110!!

Mark H

------------------------------

------------------------------

-------------------------------

hey guys im still looking for more power for my 2176 type one.How would a nitros oxide system go for my streeter.A 50hp system is what i was

thinking of used sparingly.How would this work with the motor.Would it put too much stress on the engine.im running 044s,rimco rods,idf44s,296

cam,.525 lift.Are these nos systems easy to set up?

rob

-------------------------------

supply the n2o with plenty of fuel and take out some timing and you will be safe. best thing to do is read about it and learn how it works.

easy to do fast, easier to hurt parts.

good luck,

FAT MIKE

-------------------------------

Mike is totally correct.....READ FIRST and use the NOS tech line.......NO2 is a great and safe way to make HP if used correctly, if not damage can

occur. Most people that have durogatory comments on the usage of N02 don't understand how it works.....to reiterate what Mike said...make sure

you have plenty of fuel volume to the NOS system.....that is usually the problem with damaged parts, the fuel system can not keep up with the

requirements and the system leans out and voila you have ventilated pistons!

Peace................BartG

BartG

------------------------------

Hi

I used N2O on my 2,6 l engine and had no troble at all with it. Make sure that you set back ignition (dont be conservative on this, go for at least 5

deg)and have enough fuel (holley blue and and AN 6 lines) and separte regulators so you can have at least 5 PSI on the N2O side, you avoid the

risk of having air bubles locking up fuel suply, 50 hp jets are pretty small so build up time should be considerd. One more thing is the need to

mount the solinoids as low as possible, at least with centermounted solenoids as the rest fuel will drip for a while and that may couse a rich

condition (small jets!). I think the rest of your combo is OK. I used Rimco Super Rods and welded crank and had no harm done on things!

Set up your system with as mouch N2O the chassi can take on first gear as that make good ET's. Long line give a slow pressure buildup so you

don't shock the chassie. I myself went over the board with 125 hp resulting in wheelspin and going sideways in third gear, loosing the race.

Backing to 80 hp resultetd in an easygoing 11.89 (muffler, fanbelt on and DOT tires). Go for it!

 

Sven-Olof Brorsson

------------------

------------------

Just purchased 2275 nos motor for CB. FK8(307,378) cam, New 044 heads with 12mm plug 42,37 valves oval port and polish. Also got complete injestion. Motor will rev. to 7k.Jim from the buggy house sent me to get info on NOS applications.

Will a single shot work better than a progressive. Also will the stock pump,and lines have to be replaced from the CB injection kit to support the pressure and volume. I need help, thanks E-mail me [email protected]

evan

Click here to reply

Replies:

Re: Evan who??? (n/t) (max, Der Bahnstormerz) (19-Apr-2000 19:05:23)

Re: NOS (nor-cal vw's) (19-Apr-2000 19:19:59)

Yea all fuel injection setups need a return line back to the tank and one that is bigger than the stock one to feed the injectors. As for the Sqeeze... (Chuck) (19-Apr-2000 22:35:29)

--------------------------

Evan,

The Progressive Nos setup is the way to go as it will allow you to use a little bit of nos off the line as opposed to a 100% shot. This way you can keep the tires from spinning and then have it give as much nitrous as the track & tires can handle.

Think of it as you easing on the throttle & slipping the clutch as opposed to mashing the throttle & dumping the clutch.

The only down side to any nitrous systen as it's hard to keep it consistent throughout the day.

The fuel delivery needs to be huge!

You can use a High Volume pump then split off after the pump to two seperate Fuel pressure regulators one for the Fi & one for the nitrous. You might need to add a seperate fuel pump as FI fuel pumps usually deliver High Pressure and Low volume. You absouletely need to have a over kill fuel system as if you have a little air bubblw in your nitrous fuel supply you'll destroy the engine. And you MUST supply some kind of fuel return system from the pressure regulators back to the tank for the longevity of the fuel pumps.

Dave.

nor-cal vw's

-----------------------

Get the four fogger setup and run a seperate fuel system to feed the fuel solenoids, this way you can run race gas with the sqeeze and not worry about detonation.

Chuck

-----------------

Nitrous setup

Tuesday, 23-May-2000 11:10:51

24.129.104.152 writes:

Matt, I used to run a setup similar to this in my 1740 lb "street" car (a 72 all steel sedan), which eventually ran a best 1/8 mile time of 6.98 at 102 mph (about a 10.90 quarter). This engine was a 2275 with Scat 82 VW rod crank, Pauter modified stock rods, Cima 94s with total seal 2nd rings, 10mm head studs (a must), FK87 cam (with juice the bottom end torque is awesome, without it sucks), 11 to 1 compression (don't go any higher than this or you will crush rod bearings on N20), and 42 x 38 stock based welded oval port heads with K800 springs, ti retainers, and Pauter 1.4 rockers. I was running IDAs with 42mm vents but the IDFs should be fine. The critical things on a nitrous motor are exhaust and fuel supply. I used a Berg 2 inch header, which works extremely well with this combo on the bottle, but can barely lift a tach needle without it (read: no bottom end!). Make sure you have at least a 1/2 inch (8an) fuel line running from tank to engine. Mount at least a Holley blue or better yet Barry Grant bg250 fuel pump under your tank up front, remove the stock fitting and strainer from the tank, and attach a small sump with 8an outlet in its place (watch for tie rod clearance here). At the engine tee your fuel line and mount 2 pressure regulators, use the Holley "red" reg for your carb supply, and a "blue" reg for your fuel solenoid on your N2O setup. Do not jet your N2O bigger than 100 hp and creep up on your setup by slowly dropping fuel pressure from about 7-8 psi on the N2O side (keep it a little rich). My crank broke into 5 pieces when I tried to step it up to a 150 hp shot, and it was running a little fat when it happened - don't get greedy! Good luck.

Horst Powers

P.S. I forgot - retard total timing about 2 degrees for every 25 hp of N2O (n/t) (H.P.) (23-May-2000 11:15:39)

---------------

Re: 2332cc & Nitrous Oxide

Monday, 03-Jul-2000 20:01:19

207.172.81.133 writes:

Well the sportsman pro fogger is the way to go .

1) it easy to install

2) it comes with 50 hp jetting

3) The guys at NOS are very helpful with tech questions

4) yes you will need a purge valve because with the proper jetting you must make sure that the bottle pressure does not climb too high, the guys at nos will tell you what that pressure should be.(around 900ish)

A bottle warmer would be needed in winter to get 900psi from a bottle. Also you would need a pressure gauge in line with the bottle so you would know what your bottle pressure is.

Personally i would run two fuel supplies one for carbs one for nitrous system or one large volumn pump with #10 line split at a wye, to two regulators, again one for carbs (~4 psi) and the other for nos (set at no less than 9 psi); also put a pressure switch (adjustable from NOS)on nitrous fuel side of regulator to shut down spray if fuel pressure drops below preset psi(9lbs)this will HELP prevent lean out.

I ran this system for one and a half seasons on my 2110 berg race motor with no ill effects. Nos will figure the jetting for you, however always start off with the smallest nitrous jet and largest fuel jet and go up on nitrous jets a step at a time, always checking your plugs untill you reach the sizes they say are right(not that im saying they are wrong but they are for an ideal setup which you must prove to yourself yours is). 100 HP boost not a problem ran it all day long till my bottle ran dry hehe.

Hope this gives you an idea as to what to look for or look into .

FAT MIKE if im wrong tell me or add if i left anything out which im sure i did.

Why would you want to go from turbo to carbs again.

TURBOS RULE

 

 

Gary Cooper

------------------

e: 2332cc & Nitrous Oxide

Monday, 03-Jul-2000 20:47:44

205.188.200.145 writes:

Jyrki,ditto Gary's info,I dont run that much fuel pres. (only 5 1/2 psi) but pressure and jetting go hand in hand. You

MUST take timing out most people will tell you 2 deg per 50 hp use that as a minimum play it safe,detination will turn

your motor into junk faster than you can say the word.Don't want to scare you but the system has to be right and when it's

right hold on,nothing like that 100 or 150 extra hp.

I also like the compression a little lower like 8.5 because my wife drives her car every day but some of the guys like it

higher,and run the best raceing gasoline you can get min 108 octane one area where more IS better

MSD makes some great products for controling the timing

see ya at the races Phil

Nitrous Bandit

---------------------

---------------------

---------------------

---------------------

NOS Thursday, 24-Aug-2000 18:58:08 Message: 38.29.63.65 writes: Ijust got my NOS pro fogger kit today, im startig off with a 50 shot,i have a 2386cc with super flows 46intake 40 exaust,48 IDA's,fk 87 cam,1.4.5 rockers,10.68.1 comp.My first question is should i lower my comp to 8.5.1.Next should i run two fuel systems.I'm hoping for the car to run high 11s do you guys think that is possible with my set up. Oh yea 412 r/p 158 3rd 112 4th, 7 inch firerstone slicks, cars weight around 1600 pounds. Any help would be great Buddy DVB 55

Click here to reply

Replies:

Re: NOS (Jeff N.) (24-Aug-2000 19:13:46)

Re: NOS (bugly) (24-Aug-2000 21:33:25)

Buddy your next investment should be a full roll cage for this baby if you know what i mean (n/t) (Frenchy Dehoux) (24-Aug-2000 21:40:55)

What does your car run off the squeeze, on the motor. (n/t) (Chuck) (24-Aug-2000 23:49:23)

Re: NOS......not needed. I'm going back to speedworld tomorrow night if you are interested BUDDY. going to try and run that 11.second pass with the new 1996cc motor ( and I'm not using nos) I got the flat spot to go away so should pull hard all the way this time!!! (n/t) (Jerry (misbehavin racing)) (24-Aug-2000 23:51:03)

Thanks Jeff on the info. Since every one else tjinks they are f---ing einstein's.My old car ran a 1301 105mph with street tires and a 210 60 foot time. Yea im shure the car would have ran a killer with out the nos, One of the main reasons i put the nos in the car Jerry is because i want the car to pull hard one the top end WITH OUT gutting the entire car like you had to.And for the rest of you besides FRenchy who responded to my post if you can't answer my questions don't respond. (n/t) (Buddy DVB 55) (25-Aug-2000 00:16:02)

are you planting this stomper in the oval you scored? what's the altitude in phoenix?? (n/t) (Steve B) (25-Aug-2000 00:28:45) You bet ya Steve im tring to have the fastest STREET CAR in phoenix.how is the vert doing. (n/t) (Buddy DVB55) (25-Aug-2000 00:53:56)

hi buddy, i'd say lower the compression so the motor will live on 93 octane, then use the nos when you need power... are your 48's running those ball-check(gross valves?) in the float bowl? can you fit a factory fuel injection gas tank in your car? (n/t) (dan) (25-Aug-2000 02:34:58)

Re: NOS:: Buddy, a second fuel system is an added insurance policy,2nd you should invest in an nos pressure gauge for bottle pressure and extra solinoid for a purge...more (Gary Cooper) (25-Aug-2000 10:09:59)

Re: NOS (howard) (25-Aug-2000 10:54:18)

The purge valve is to release gaseous nitrous from the line. This helps prevent a momentary rich condition when you first hit the button, as N2O is obviously more dense in a liquid state. If you are using the purge valve to control bottle pressure, you might as well be blowing a twenty out your ass. Bottle pressure shoulod be controlled by temperature. Thank you for your time and attention on this matter<8-) (n/t) (iluvnos) (25-Aug-2000 13:11:24)

Forgot to mention it looks pretty f$!#@ing cool too!!! (n/t) (iluvnos) (25-Aug-2000 13:14:22)

-------------------------

Re: NOS Thursday, 24-Aug-2000 19:13:46 63.71.188.147 writes: Congrats on the new blue bottle. I run the juice on my street car(ghia). I dont think the compression will be an issue as long as you have the gas to compensate for it. I am a firm believer in a separate fuel system. Or at least a HUGE fuel pump with 2 regulators and the one to the bottle having a return port. I run a separate fuel system on my car with good results. I will say given the specs on your engine and car weight you would easily run into the 11's with a little assist. I have been held back on my e.t due to traction problems. I dont have slicks yet. But with a 75 shot on my 175hp engine the car has gone just under 113 ON RADIALS. That is an 11 with traction for sure. If you want more specifics feel free to email and good luck with the new power!!!!! Jeff N.

-----------------

Re: NOS:: Buddy, a second fuel system is an added insurance policy,2nd you should invest in an nos pressure gauge for bottle pressure and extra solinoid for a purge...more Friday, 25-Aug-2000 10:09:59 63.11.135.11 writes: You can call nos and talk with any tech there and get the info for proper bottle pressure and feul pressure for the jets you are running.They told me to run 9psi fuel pressure,so i also added an adjustable fuel pressure switch hook it up to an relay that controlled nos soleniod and set it for cutoff at7psi (normally open points)this is so when and if fuel pressure drops under 7 it wont let nos energize helping to prevent leanout. Speaking of leanout that is why bottle pressure is so IMPORTANT the purge is to bleed off pressure to a range told to you by the nos tech. I know some of the people here will say these things are a little extreme but its not thier motor is it? With your compression that high these things become more important, I was running 12 to 1 with 100hp shot in my 2110 turning 10.77 at 1625lb car @ 121 MPH.It sure felt nice when that button got pushed I used it from the get go so big wheel stand resulted all the way through 1st and smaller one through2nd with rubber trackes all the way through 1/8 mile,HEHE.Little bug was haulin ass and the fans went wild lovin the little bug kickin V8 butts. Well maybe you can use some of this info to your benifit.Good Luck and keep it between the lines. Gary Gary Cooper

-------------------------

Re: NOS Friday, 25-Aug-2000 10:54:18 209.250.9.17 writes: I used genuine VW heads (43x37.5) & 12.5 compression ratio, using VP C-12 gasoline and 6 degrees retard on a 2160 cc engine in a 1550 pound bug to turn 11 o's. Pick the nitrous jet for the horsepower that you want, but go one step richer than recommended on the gas jet for engine protection. The spark retard and additional fuel are absolutely necassary for engine protection howard


Disclaimer: This information is presented strictly as a service to the VW community, by oceanstreetvideo.com. Most of these threads came from callookforum.com, which is hosted by Keith Seume. The Cal-look forum does not presently have message archiving or search capability. All copyrights belong to the original author(s) of the material. If you wish to have your public posting removed from this thread, send email. You may obtain copyright information at the "10 big myths about copyright" website.
[VW Drag Racing] [VW Technical Info] [Sand Video] [VW Car Shows] [VW Engine Building]
[Import Video] [Tina New] [Download] [Order Page] [Home] [Email]