So, if the original type 1 oil capacity is about 2.5 quarts, you add an external filter/lines for another 1.25 quarts, and bolt on a 2 quart external
sump, giving a total of 5.75 quarts.
My question is why not just run 5 quarts? The additional .75 quarts might amount to an additional 3/16" to 1/4" depth in the original VW sump
area, but the pickup is now located in the lower sump, so the extra oil shouldn't really be necessary unless you're on a long, steep hill where
drainage to the add on sump is delayed.
Yes? No? Why?
Click here to reply
i hear it is best to run a sumped vw at about 1-2pints low on the dipstick. It helps reduce foaming which can affect lubrication. I (n/t) (17-Jan-01 11:48:34)
You don't count how much oil is in the lines and filter. What matters is the amount of oil in the sump so the more you have the better. (n/t) (17-Jan-01 12:30:36)
I agree that's the point - but the sump is now the add-on, so how much do you really need in the original sump location? (n/t) (george brown) (17-Jan-01 13:01:28)
Re: George ,I`m not sure of the question but heres how I fill my VWS with oil. Equiped with sumps,coolers,or whatever... ( Mark H) (17-Jan-01 13:46:22)
I second the notion on the check valve in the oil filter. Many Fram filters do not have this valve. I know for sure that the Fram replacement filter for full flowed type 4's
doesnt have the valve. With a Fram Filter it took 3-4 seconds to prime and for pressure to build. I now use Purolator or Bosch because they are one of the same. Just
figure you start your car once a day for a year and it takes 3 seconds to prime that makes 18 minutes of running your engine with no oil----------ouch--matt (n/t) (17-Jan-01
WIX 51622 is a great THICK wall filter, cross referenced with an HP1. However, the WIX has a metal check valve and rubber seal (?) and the HP1 has a card board
seal. I read this in one of those big filter studies that someone posted a link to (I think Mr. Tweddle). I have ran 51622 filters for five years of year round full flow driving in
zero degree weather, zero blow offs, and no relief cover. (n/t) (Steve Arndt) (17-Jan-01 15:52:25)
I think I found that study from Muffler Mike..... And about oil level in the sump>>> (Bruce Tweddle) (17-Jan-01 18:20:58)
I always run my motor with a 2 quart sump and full flowed, with the oil right at or a little above the first line at the bottom of the dipstick, other it causes foaming as the first reply stated. (n/t)
(Ollie Frey) (17-Jan-01 13:25:19)
Re: Oil capacity with sump? (Muffler Mike) (17-Jan-01 15:11:51)
I was running mine a 1/2 quart low, but I think I'll pour that 1/2 quart back in now:-) (n/t) ( James2) (17-Jan-01 20:41:58)
i always thought if you put oil in the engine, it would have something to leak out. keep it dry.>>> (bugly) (17-Jan-01 21:47:37)
First off like the guy who is afraid to leave his name said, HIPO VWS with deep sumps usually run about a 1/2 quart low . But I drive my VWS
daily and I drive them hard so no matter what they consume some oil. Brand new BMWs that drive the autobuan in Germany keep a quart of oil
under the hood for refilling because high speed,high RPM driving consumes oil. I`m sure you all ready know this. So I just fill it up to the top line
like normal. I start my engine and let it run for a minute and switch it off and emediately check the oil level. This way no oil from coolers or
other lines has a chance to drain back into the sump and give you a false higher level. I almost smoked a motor of the freeway doing 120 one
because I used to wait a moment before I checked the oil level and I ended up not running enough oil and my pressure dropped at extended high
speeds. Now I check it the second the motor is turned off becuse I want to know what oil level the motor is seeing. I did run my oil level slightly
low like people said for years but because I drove so much and was checking my level all the time I noticed it didn`t seem to matter if I got it a
little high so now I just keep it at the top line. The way I figure it ,if you aren`t pouring smoke out the back then its not too high and if your
pressure doesn`t drop from hard Gs or at extended high speeds then its not to low. :-) well thats my logic George ,I hope it helps a little,
Oh one last thing about oil filters. Some do not have an anti-drain back valve in them and will let all the oil drain back into the sump over night.
This will leave your motor temporarilly dry on start up (air in the lines). Most good quality filters have the valve in them but its good to check. It
usually looks like a rubber flap inside the filter that covers the holes at the battom of the filter. Its basicly a one way valve/flap.
On my 2001 Bug engine with factory filter pump, the filler cap warns against overfilling above the top mark on the dipstick, or CAT damage
could occur, implying it causes oil to leak past the rings and get burned. It now takes about 3.25 qts to fill a new Bug.
Just another thing to keep in mind. at sustained hi rpm, you will most likely fill the 3-4 side valve cover full of oil. (at least this is how a test i
did on my page came out.) then subtract that much out of your supply.( 1-1.5 quarts, maybe more. any one ever fill just a valve cover to see what
volume they have)
and then if you create enough pressure on that side, it goes up the breater line and into your breater box where it should drain back to another port
but that displaces that much more. (I have clear breather lines and not to long ago i watched the oil level climb out of my valve cover and started
moving to my breather box with about 10 seconds of 5000 rpm.)
I would prersonally keep it up to the full line just like Mark stated. Im running a 4 quart so i dont worry about it quite as much as i did with the
smaller sump. I use to run mine a quart low with my small sump so i was not the person blamed for puking oil all over the track. And as my stuff
wore out, i caught my 30lbs oil pressure sender flickering in 4th gear. I just started topping it off and never had a problem.